Review by Martin on 22nd March, 2010

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In the heart of Soho Zilli Fish on Brewer Street has the feel of a neighbourhood bistro, which is to its credit given the growing fame of its founder - as we left after lunch Mr Z was also heading off on his bicycle. For a Wednesday afternoon the place was busy if not 100 per cent packed. Trade certainly looked good, the breadth of the menu (and the depth as far as prices are concerned – the fish, chips and mushy peas a steal below £10) meaning there were people on adjoining tables tucking into some nicely aromatic squid, mounds of mussels, and beefy looking tuna steaks as well as the chippie-style dish. We went for the smoked trout with poached egg on crushed new potatoes as starter, good but maybe needing something a bit punchier to lift it, or perhaps a smokier-cure fish. The main was John Dory fillet served on a Caesar salad, far more satisfying: the John Dory was beautifully fresh tasting, done to perfection; the anchovies in the salad made a nice salty counterpoint to the bigger fillets. Washed down with a crisp appley Italian white and finished with a real espresso the meal was satisfying without making the rest of the afternoon a struggle, and the service just right - there when needed, absent when not.

Date visited: March 2010